Okay, finally got round to review this! One of my favourite this season and all time for Mr.Simons. The reaction was slow but steady and it builds up. There is something so genuine about this collection, it was not so overly simplified as Mr. Simons was in the past and at Jil Sander.
The mood was set by a show invitation that reads "Rise of the Craftman and Fall of the Prince." The music that played was Nicki Minaj's and Eminem's Roman's Revenge which was kind of strange and surprisingly effective.
The colours were interesting for fall, he seem to translates what he did at Jil Sander to his own collection, referencing Yves Saint Laurent with those bright colours. My favourite were the bright coloured coats with the rounded shoulders which kind of remind me of those Balenciaga couture *1(refer to reference at the bottom) with the cocooned shape and wraps over the shoulders. There is also something shell like about them, the neoprene(i think) remind me of my scuba wet suit and somehow that is quite comforting. They were like parka which i love but with a thicker tougher fabric which holds it shape very well emphasising those wide sleeves, I just can't wait to see it. I do love an oversize parka, a good coat seem to cover everything and all the worries in the world just seem to diminish.
This was Raf Simons's Maximal Minimalism to the max, something that he has been toying with for seasons. The collection also consists of camel and white duffel coats(2085 pounds as told by the very helpful guy at Oki-ni) with the wooden toggles. There were plenty of knit and college sweatshirt again with the rounded shoulders. They are contrast with highly glossed latex trousers which somehow seem to work. the knitwear were like ski-sweater(again like his Jil Sander Womenwear Fall 2011 *2(refer to reference) where the girls remind me of Catherine Deneuve in Belle de Jour) *3(refer to reference). It reminded me of something in the 90's, something I see when I was younger, something nostalgic. The sweatshirt was printed in college frat type font that reads "Dead Prince College" and "Memory Ware Collector" (referencing one of Mr. Simons' favourite artist Mike Kelley *4(refer to reference.) The gelled up hair is also something very 90's.
The dialogue were clear, I get it, I love it, I will be saving up for it as the price quote were scary and finally something to look forward to except for the dull, dead winter of London.
References
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