Picasso at Jil Sander

The 2-D face printed onto these knits were just incredible. As a big fan of modern art and Jil Sander, this just do it for me. The people in the knows said that Picasso was the inspiration but this looks like Miró to me, no? What do you think?








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we could flood the streets with love or light or heat whatever

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Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012

Photos by Sonny Vandevelde

Lumpy knits, see thru PVC coats, pythons, shiny glossy leather, more home-project lumpy knits, shorts, high waisted shorts, ipad case and touristy waterproof case hang around the neck, colourful python boots, more pythons, more PVC and a touch of that teal-y, sea green we have been seeing everywhere.

He continued on that theme of rebellious youth but now, there seem to be something a little more aggressive, a little more rigour in the attitude. It was very 40's Berlin meet the reptilian sci-fi boys from Mars. The wet slickness of the hair, the skin and the fabric suggest future but also referencing the past with the cut; the classic mac and pin-stripped suits. Everything was loose but there was still a sense of restraint, the boys in the show look very smart in a way that would only exist in this weird place Mr. Simons has taken us to.




















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Rise of the Craftman and Fall of the Prince. Indeed.

Okay, finally got round to review this! One of my favourite this season and all time for Mr.Simons. The reaction was slow but steady and it builds up. There is something so genuine about this collection, it was not so overly simplified as Mr. Simons was in the past and at Jil Sander.
The mood was set by a show invitation that reads "Rise of the Craftman and Fall of the Prince." The music that played was Nicki Minaj's and Eminem's Roman's Revenge which was kind of strange and surprisingly effective.



The colours were interesting for fall, he seem to translates what he did at Jil Sander to his own collection, referencing Yves Saint Laurent with those bright colours. My favourite were the bright coloured coats with the rounded shoulders which kind of remind me of those Balenciaga couture *1(refer to reference at the bottom) with the cocooned shape and wraps over the shoulders. There is also something shell like about them, the neoprene(i think) remind me of my scuba wet suit and somehow that is quite comforting. They were like parka which i love but with a thicker tougher fabric which holds it shape very well emphasising those wide sleeves, I just can't wait to see it. I do love an oversize parka, a good coat seem to cover everything and all the worries in the world just seem to diminish.


This was Raf Simons's Maximal Minimalism to the max, something that he has been toying with for seasons. The collection also consists of camel and white duffel coats(2085 pounds as told by the very helpful guy at Oki-ni) with the wooden toggles. There were plenty of knit and college sweatshirt again with the rounded shoulders. They are contrast with highly glossed latex trousers which somehow seem to work. the knitwear were like ski-sweater(again like his Jil Sander Womenwear Fall 2011 *2(refer to reference) where the girls remind me of Catherine Deneuve in Belle de Jour) *3(refer to reference). It reminded me of something in the 90's, something I see when I was younger, something nostalgic. The sweatshirt was printed in college frat type font that reads "Dead Prince College" and "Memory Ware Collector" (referencing one of Mr. Simons' favourite artist Mike Kelley *4(refer to reference.) The gelled up hair is also something very 90's.









© by Raf Simons

The dialogue were clear, I get it, I love it, I will be saving up for it as the price quote were scary and finally something to look forward to except for the dull, dead winter of London.
References 



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Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2011

I think I just died. I love everything here, I can't stop looking at them and maybe I am crazy but I would wear everything here especially those oversized parka/duffle/coat, love child of the three. For now just watch and see and later on we shall dissect the outfit individually. The message on the invitation reads "Rise of the craftsman and fall of the prince". Hmmm...indeed

Seasons after seasons, I just cannot seem to get over Jil Sander or Raf Simons, no matter how Uniqlo or United Color of Benetton it looks. Maybe it is an obsession and I may need help because I won't have enough fund to finance these.

Footnote: Sorry for posting so many videos lately, it is not that I am lazy but I just have been so visual these days, you know?Source URL: http://naturalbellescloset.blogspot.com/search/label/Raf%20Simons
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Menswear Fall/Winter 2011

Here are some of my favourite looks from the Fall/Winter 2011 collection. As you can probably guess, I am slightly obsessed with these huge coats or anything that will keep me warm. I love Marni, this season, wonderful, simple clothes. Those totes look very cute too and I can feel the waves of the bloggers blogging about them now. I looked at their website and for a plain wool sweater, I would have to pay 400 Euro, which is quite ridiculous. I will just stare for now.

Raf Simons was amazing again, I especially love those knits with the pattern, very cute and wearable. Raf Simons never disappoints, its probably because I love minimal things, they are just so easy and cool. I've never been in love with a YSL collection before but I am starting to understand why men and women love them so much. The TAILORING, those clothes look impeccable, so we love you Mr. Pilati, never leave.

I was disappointed with the Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2010 collection with their bleach cloud prints, which I actually think looks very cool but I just don't think it would look good on me! This season was heaven, again those thick coats and the colour palettes just seems like it was custom to my taste, the navies, the greys, the beige, and the mustards.




Which collection do you like and should I spend £3000 on a YSL coat?Source URL: http://naturalbellescloset.blogspot.com/search/label/Raf%20Simons
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Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011 Campaign| P. by Willy Vanderperre| Yannick Abrath

© by Jil Sander

A wonderfully shot campaign with the collaboration of two very cool minimalist, Raf Simons for the Jil Sander collection and Willy Vanderperre for the photography. One of my favourite collection ever from Jil Sander(both menswear and women.) I am loving all the colour blocking, and in the womenswear, there are something very streetwear-couture about them. I know there has been many that says they dislike it but I think it is simply genius.

Some claim that the clothes look very Uniqlo which I partly agree but this campaign is sick! The stark white background in contrast with those saturated colours that almost looks like watercolour. The women campaign is also very cool.




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Loves and dislikes of 2010

1| Vogue Paris by Carine Roitfeld and the whole team. To me there is nothing more inspirational than no-eyebrows models shot by Mert and Marcus, covers with models holding their boobs, and androgynous models that makes you stare hard at their crotch.



2| Byredo Scented Candles in Peyote Poem. A brilliant and unique scent that is strong but not offensive in any sense, it relaxes me.




3| Love Daphne Groeneveld, She is truly a stand out this season, I love her hooded eyes and those juicy lips.








4| I have always loved Raf Simons, this season he presented incredible collections for both his own label and Jil Sander. Jil sander menswear was minimal with a fantastic twist of fluorecent shades.



5| Old books (not too old but old.)



6| I LOVE Steven Meisel and Nicolas Ghesquière but I don't like this campaign nor am I too fond of the S/S 2011 collection.




7| I do not like this at all, I hate that Burberry is becoming to overwhelmingly commercial, it is not really the quality or the craftsmanship (cannot judge since I don't own many pieces) but to me Burberry is not really a luxury good to me anymore. This S/S 2011 collection was painful to watch (literally when that girl fell at the end and the beads on the clothes fell off.) No more to say.Source URL: http://naturalbellescloset.blogspot.com/search/label/Raf%20Simons
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